Project guide · Decks
Building a Deck? Start Here
A deck looks like one project, but it’s really three material orders: the boards you walk on, the concrete the posts stand in, and the screws and hardware holding it together. Plan them in that order and nothing stalls waiting on a delivery. Each phase below links to the calculator that sizes it.
The three phases
Phase 1 — Deck boards
Start with the walking surface. The deck material calculator turns your deck’s length, width, and board choice into a board count with waste built in — order from that number and you won’t be making a second lumber run.
Phase 2 — Concrete footings
Every post needs a footing below the frost line. The concrete calculator sizes the total pour from your footing count and diameter, so the ready-mix truck — or your bag count — shows up with the right amount.
Phase 3 — Screws & fasteners
Finish the estimate with the small stuff that stalls projects: deck screws, joist hangers, and structural hardware. The framing calculator estimates fastener counts so you buy them once, with a margin.
Deck build checklist
Print this and take it to the site. Check items off as you go — the fastest way to stall a deck build is discovering a missing step after the concrete truck leaves.
Planning
- Check whether your city or county requires a permit for the deck size and height you’re planning.
- Call 811 (or your local utility locator) before you dig any footing holes.
- Look up your local frost line — footings must sit below it.
- Sketch the deck to scale with overall length, width, and stair location.
Footings & concrete
- Mark post locations and confirm the layout is square (equal diagonals).
- Dig footing holes below the frost line, typically 12 inches in diameter or per your plan.
- Set concrete tube forms, then run the concrete calculator for the total footing volume.
- Pour footings, set post bases, and check level before the concrete sets.
Framing
- Attach the ledger board to the house with proper flashing and structural lag screws or bolts.
- Set posts plumb, then install beams and joists at the spacing your plan calls for (usually 16 inches on center).
- Install joist hangers and blocking; re-check the frame for square and level.
Boards & fasteners
- Run the deck material calculator for the board count, then order boards plus 10% for waste and cuts.
- Acclimate boards on site for a few days before fastening.
- Fasten boards with deck screws, keeping consistent gaps for drainage and expansion.
- Estimate screws and hardware with the framing calculator — buy a margin, since running out mid-row is the classic stall.
Finish
- Install railing, balusters, and stairs to code height and spacing.
- Apply sealer or stain per the product’s instructions.
- Walk the deck and tighten anything that moved; schedule the final inspection if your permit requires one.
Frequently asked questions
What order should I build a deck in?
Plan and permit first, then footings, then the ledger and framing, then decking boards, then railing and stairs, and finish with sealer or stain. You can size materials in any order, but the build itself follows that sequence — concrete before lumber, framing before boards.
How deep do deck footings need to be?
Below your local frost line — commonly 36 to 48 inches in cold climates, shallower where it never freezes. Twelve-inch-diameter tube forms are typical for residential decks, but footing size follows the load and the soil, so check local code before you dig.
How many deck boards will I need?
It depends on your deck’s dimensions and the board width you’re using. Our deck material calculator works it out from your footprint, including a waste allowance for cuts — run it before you order, since lumber yards charge restocking on returns.
Do I need a permit to build a deck?
Usually yes for attached or elevated decks — most jurisdictions want to see the ledger attachment and footing depth. Low, freestanding decks are sometimes exempt. A quick call to your local building department settles it before you buy a single board.